Ulu Temburong National Park: Travel Guide To Brunei’s Green Jewel

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Ulu Temburong

Most visitors to Brunei only stay within the Bandar Seri Begawan city center, which is home to Brunei’s major attractions (Kampong Ayer, the 2 National Mosques, and Gadong Night Market). However, this would be a mistake if you enjoy natural attractions!

Ulu Temburong National Park provides the best natural experience in Brunei. You’ll find solitude in Borneo’s exotic rainforest - one of the oldest in the world. The park is just a short trip from Bandar Seri Begawan, yet it feels so different.

In this travel guide, we’ll explore Ulu Temburong National Park.

We’ll cover the Temburong District, what to do in Ulu Temburong, wildlife you can encounter, where to stay, how to visit, some helpful tips, and the top-rated tour operators to choose from!

Bird’s-eye view of the Temburong District

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Table of Contents

• Temburong District

• Temburong Bridge

• The Green Jewel Of Brunei

• Things To Do In Ulu Temburong

  • Discover Wildlife

  • Birds

  • Reptiles And Amphibians

  • Insects

  • Other Fauna And Flora

• Where To Stay And Tour Operators

• How To Visit Ulu Temburong

• Visitor Tips!

• Conclusion

• Best Way To Find A Hotel In Brunei

• About The Author (Taz Zaidi)

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Temburong District

Brunei is comprised of 4 districts. Malaysia splits the three western districts (Belait, Tutong, Brunei-Muara) from Temburong District on the east. Ulu Temburong National Park is located in the Temburong District.

Temburong is sparsely populated (home to 10,000+ people - only 3% of Brunei’s population). The district capital is Bangar, where the Tamu Bangar market (the district’s largest) is found. Outside of Bangar, the rest of Temburong is made up of small towns surrounded by thick forest, connected by rivers and rural roads.

Map of Brunei’s 4 districts

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Temburong Bridge

At 30 kilometers, the Temburong Bridge is the longest in Southeast Asia. It connects Temburong to Brunei-Muara district across Brunei Bay. The bridge (opened in 2020) was built to ease transportation and increase tourism. Prior to it’s creation, the only transportation options between the two districts were by speedboat or by crossing four checkpoints overland, into and out of Malaysia. This logistical issue deterred many from visiting the eastern district. Apart from its utility, the bridge has also become an attraction. It’s a modern architectural spectacle built as a joint project between Brunei, China and South Korea.

Temburong Bridge is the longest in Southeast Asia

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The Green Jewel of Brunei

Ulu Temburong National Park is a marvellous place to get away from civilization for an afternoon or a couple of days. You can smell the difference in the air as you leave Bandar Seri Begawan’s bustle. Affectionately called the “Green Jewel of Brunei”, Ulu Temburong has maintained pristine condition thanks to the local regulations and government protection. It became Brunei’s first national park in 1991, and has avoided industrialization and imposing tourism infrastructure.

Thanks to its oil wealth, Brunei has avoided the need to deforest in order to clear space for agriculture - an issue which plagues many forested countries around the world, including neighboring Indonesia. Ulu Temburong accounts for nearly 40% (550 sq km) of the Temburong district’s total area. The park is located within Batu Apoi Forest Reserve (lush, forested region of peaks and valleys). Due to conservation efforts, visitors can only explore within specific bounds.

Brunei has done a commendable job preserving its forest

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Things To Do In Ulu Temburong

There are many things to do in Ulu Temburong. Your options depend on the tour operator you book with. You can’t enter the park without a guide. Adventurous options include zip-lining, rafting, forest night walks, and jungle trekking. There are also more relaxing options like river tubing, longboat riding, and getting a pelian fish massage in the natural pool of a waterfall.

Undoubtedly, the biggest highlight and most popular attraction of Ulu Temburong is the Canopy Walk. The walkway sits 60 meters above the forest floor, with a panoramic view above the treetops. It's accessed by climbing stairs in an enclosed, safe staircase. If you stay overnight, you’ll see an incredible sunrise from the Canopy Walk - a memory that will stick with you long after your trip. All tour operators serve traditional Temburong meals.

Canopy Walk is a must-do during your visit!

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Discover Wildlife

A traveler coming all the way to Borneo would likely be drawn to nature and wildlife. Before getting into what you might encounter, it’s important to temper expectations. Don’t expect to see the iconic Bornean orangutan. The jungle is vast, and orangutans prefer privacy (making sightings rare). Proboscis monkeys are sometimes seen, but not guaranteed. The best way to encounter these endemic, endangered monkeys is on a Brunei River Tour in Bandar Seri Begawan. As for what you can expect to see, the park is known for its diversity of birds, reptiles, amphibians and insects. Your guide’s trained eye will help you spot them.

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Birds

Bird watching is a popular activity in Ulu Temburong. The intriguing, pre-historic appearance of Bornean birds will impress any visitor. Notable birds include: rhinoceros hornbill, bushy-crested hornbill, banded broadbill and black and yellow broadbill. The rhinoceros hornbill is sacred to Borneo’s indigenous Dayak people. This elegant and striking bird is easily identifiable by its large orange and red bill. Males’ bills are more pronounced than females’.

Rhinoceros hornbill perched on a tree branch

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Reptiles And Amphibians

The park is home to various reptiles and amphibians. Guides are great at spotting them, despite the animals having evolved for millions of years to blend in with their environment. Snakes include the Wagler’s pit viper, which usually sits on tree branches just a bit off the walking paths. The flying lizard is one of many lizard species.

The Smooth Guardian frog is known for its paternal care. Unlike most frog species, fathers of this species guard the mother’s tadpoles and carry them on their backs. Another interesting frog species is the Wallace’s flying frog, named after the famed biologist who studied it, Alfred Wallace. It is easy to recognize by its bright colors and long limbs.

Wallace’s flying frog at night

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Insects

Hundreds of butterfly species live in Ulu Temburong. The Rajah Brooke’s birdwing, named after James Brooke, the controversial “White Rajah of Sarawak”, is a beautiful species. Males are easy to spot by their green and black wings. Other notable insects include the Giant Forest Ant, one of the largest ant species on Earth, and lantern flies (distinguishable by colorful bodies and protruding snouts). Take a guided night walk to see the insect world come alive in the dark.

The lantern fly has a long snout

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Other Fauna And Flora

The least pygmy squirrel is the smallest squirrel in the world, with a length of only 10-14 centimeters. They are so small that it might appear as a mouse at first glance. They are not particularly afraid of humans, so you may see them wandering by your resort. Müeller’s gibbons can be heard calling out during early morning hours. You may see centipedes and spider species. The wide variety of flora include ginger, aroids, begonia, figs and ixora flowers, among many others.

Müeller’s gibbon gazing into the forest

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Where To Stay And Tour Operators

• Ulu Ulu Resort is the first and only lodging in Batu Apoi Forest Reserve. Visitors wanting to stay in Ulu Ulu must book ahead of time.

• Freme’s Rainforest Lodge & Adventure Park is a great option for those seeking adventure.

• Sumbiling Eco Village is particularly suited for travelers passionate about eco-friendly standards and/or want to learn about the Temburong indigenous culture. If interested, see Sumbiling’s Viator tour link at the bottom of this article.

• Trandie Resort is another adventure option.

Freme, Sumbiling, and Trandie are all near each other in Batang Duri, and organize transportation in/out of Ulu Temburong National Park for their guests.

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How To Visit Ulu Temburong

You can visit Ulu Temburong as a day trip or as part of an overnight stay. Either way, tour operators will pick you up from Bandar Seri Begawan and take you to the jetty at the mouth of the Brunei River, where you will take a 45 minute speedboat to Bangar town. The speedboat trip through the Temburong River will be one of the best parts of your whole experience.

You’ll feel city life fade behind you as you enter the mangroves, then penetrate deeper into the rainforest - gliding through the river, twisting around banks, and scooting just under branches, with potential glimpses of wildlife along the way. After arriving in Bangar, a driver will take you to Batang Duri overland. You will either stop at your accommodation in Batang Duri or hop into a longboat and ride to Ulu Temburong National Park or Ulu Ulu Resort. Total transport time from your accommodation in Bandar Seri Begawan to Ulu Temburong National Park is around 2 hours. You’ll take the same logistical route on the way back to your accommodation in Bandar Seri Begawan.

Boats parked along the Temburong River

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Visitor Tips!

• Weather may vary between Bandar Seri Begawan and Temburong. In the rainforest, a shift from bright sun to strong rain can occur in minutes.

• Bring water resistant clothing, hiking/trekking shoes, swimming attire and insect repellant.

• There are many options for booking a tour. You can use the links for the resorts above, or book through agencies or accommodation in BSB, or online through operators on TripAdvisor.

• If you have a car, you can book tours in Bangar town or Batang Duri, after you arrive there.

*For today’s deals on hotels in Brunei (or any other destination), click here.

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Conclusion

Hopefully you found this guide helpful.

Ulu Temburong is called the “Green Jewel of Brunei” for good reason. It’s the best place in the country to immerse yourself in nature. We covered Temburong District, what to do in Ulu Temburong National Park, wildlife you can encounter, where to stay, how to visit, helpful tips, and top-rated tour operators. To learn more about Brunei, explore our other guides below.

Enjoy your travels!

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Experience Ulu Temburong through one of these tours, organized by Viator and run by locals!

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