The Brunei Food Guide [Featuring Ambuyat, The National Dish]

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Brunei Food Guide

Brunei’s cuisine is the result of a mix of rich indigenous culture, a tropical climate, a local love for seafood and spice, and the blending of cultures from Indonesia to India to China to England. Whether you’re seeking sweet or savory, meat or veggie, Brunei offers it all. As Brunei is remotely located from most of the world, visitors are able to taste flavors and dishes they’ve never seen or heard of before.

In this travel guide, we’ll explore the cuisine of Brunei.

We’ll cover the 4 key influences that define Bruneian cuisine, Brunei’s staple dishes, Ambuyat (the national dish), Nasi Katok (the national fast food), popular street foods, snacks, desserts and drinks, plus helpful tips regarding Bruneian customs and where to find these foods once you’re in Brunei.

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Table of Contents

• The Four Influences

  • Access to Produce

  • Access to Fish

  • Access to Spices

  • Diversity of People

• Staple Dishes Of Brunei

  • Ambuyat (Brunei’s National Dish)

  • Nasi Katok (National Fast Food)

  • Nasi Goreng

  • Nasi Lemak

  • Mee Goreng

  • Soto (Soup)

  • Laksa

• Street Food In Brunei

  • Satay

  • Grilled Fish

• Snacks In Brunei

  • Pulut Panggang

  • Roti Kuning

  • Lemang

  • Kelupsis

  • Roti (Canai & Murtabak)

  • Curry Puffs

• Desserts In Brunei

  • Pisang Goreng

  • Kuih Gulung

  • Cendol

  • Ais Kacang

  • Kuih Bahulu

• Drinks

  • Teh Tarik

• Conclusion

• Visitor Tips!

• Best Way To Find A Hotel In Brunei

• About The Author (Taz Zaidi)

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The Four Influences

As with the country’s complex history and national identity, Brunei’s modern cuisine is the result of many influences. Below, we’ll examine the four influences that define this unique cuisine: Access to Produce, Fish, Spices and Diversity of People

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Access to Produce

Borneo’s fertile soil produces an abundance of rich and delicious produce, which has sustained human and diverse animal life all over the island. Thanks to Brunei’s oil wealth, the government has been able to resist the urge to clear its jungle in favor of farm land. This allows a wide variety of produce to thrive.

The jungle of Borneo

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Access to Fish

Bruneians are proud of their lengthy history of fishing. Indigenous people have lived near South China Sea, the Brunei River and the Belait River for as long as records have been kept. They honed skills and established fish as a staple in the local cuisine. Below is a traditional bamboo fishing trap called the “lintau” (found in Malay Technology Museum in Bandar Seri Begawan). It is ingeniously designed to corral fish into a continuously-narrowing trap.

Fisherman have used the lintau for many generations

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Access to Spices

Brunei is located in the Malay Archipelago (the islands between the Indochina region and Australia). This region offers the richest, most variable spices on Earth. Bruneians take advantage of this by incorporating a multitude of flavorful spices into their food.

Bruneian market where vendors sell a variety of spices

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Diversity of People

From its direct neighbors in Malaysia and Indonesia, to its large immigrant populations from China, India and neighboring nations, the modern Brunei cuisine is the result of a unique blend of flavors and styles.

Map of Southeast Asia. Can you spot Brunei?

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Brunei’s Staple Dishes

Like other East Asian countries, rice and noodles are the primary staples of Bruneian cuisine. In addition to these staples, dishes typically include a protein source of fish, chicken or beef. Coconut milk and chili are common ingredients used to add flavor to these staple carbs and proteins.

Dishes are typically fried. Brunei’s cuisine is relatively spicy for someone used to a western diet. All food served/sold in Brunei is halal, meaning prepared in accordance with Islamic law. Pork and alcohol, both of which are prohibited in Islam, are also generally unavailable in the country. Before we cover the notable dishes, here’s some basic vocabulary which denote them. Knowing these words will allow you to order at most any restaurant in the country (and in Malaysia as well).

• Nasi (Rice)

• Mee (Noodles)

• Ayam (Chicken)

• Ikan (Fish)

• Goreng (Fried)

• Soto (Soup)

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AMBUYAT

[Brunei’s Famous National Dish]

Ambuyat is unrivaled as Brunei’s national dish. Its taste and appearance are both unique, sure to intrigue first-time visitors. The sago palm tree is found in Borneo’s forests. The tree’s interior contains a starchy substance, similar to tapioca. This is the primary ingredient in ambuyat. After it is removed from the tree, the starch is mixed with water until it reaches a sticky, glutinous consistency and paste-like texture. The dish was first invented during World War II, while Brunei was still under Japanese occupation. The Japanese soldiers were rationed food before the local people, and often there was not enough food to go around. Because of this, Bruneians were forced to creatively deal with hunger, leading them to venture into the forest in search of edible options.

Ambuyat is a beautiful result of that dark time. It is now eaten with utensils, called “chandas”. Chandas are made from bamboo and similar to “chopsticks” of East Asian cultures. The primary difference between chopsticks and chandas is that chandas adjoin on one end. Using chandas is a different experience, and you may look silly during your first few attempts!

To eat your ambuyat with chandas, begin by dipping the end of the chandas in, pick some out, then twist the chandas around a few times. Repeat this until you have enough for a bite. If you still have trouble, ask locals or an employee to demonstrate for you.

Example of how to use chandas

Ambuyat is typically served alongside cacah - a spicy, sour, liquid dip. Typically, cacah is made of shrimp, lime juice and chili, but this can vary depending on the restaurant. Locals typically swallow the dipped ambuyat without chewing. The texture may surprise you! In restaurants, you’ll notice that Bruneians sit together as a group around a large bowl of ambuyat, with multiple cacah bowls and veggie sides.

There are a few reliable restaurants that offer a full “Ambuyat experience”. Aminah Arif Restaurant is the most popular choice in central Bandar Seri Begawan (there are also branches outside the city center). Salera Babu Restoran is another reputed restaurant in Bandar Seri Begawan. Outside BSB, a great spot to find ambuyat is Tudung Saji Market in Kuala Belait.

Ambuyat with chandas, cacah and side dishes

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Nasi Katok

One of Brunei’s most popular dishes, and arguably its best “budget meal”, is nasi katok. Considered Brunei’s unofficial fast-food, nasi katok is a simple dish made of hot rice, chicken and sambal (a mildly spicy peanut sauce). As with ambuyat, nasi katok has an interesting origin story.

According to the tale, a traveler once arrived in Bandar Seri Begawan during the middle of the night. Hungry, he knocked on doors for hours in search of food. He had no luck, until one restaurant opened its door. The restaurant owner accepted the traveler but did not have his typical ingredients at his disposal. Scrambling to find enough, the owner grabbed what was available to him - rice, chicken and sambal. He put together a plate with the ingredients and served it to the traveler. Appropriately named, nasi katok actually translates to English as “rice knock”. You can easily find nasi katok at food stalls and markets all throughout Brunei. The price usually should not exceed 5 BND for a plate.

Nasi Katok is a simple dish with standard ingredients

Nasi Goreng

Nasi goreng transcends continents. It’s found in North America, Europe, Asia, Australia, and anywhere there is an Indonesian or Malaysian restaurant. It is a basic and simple-to-cook dish, making it a trusted choice. As you may recognize from the vocabulary we covered above, nasi goreng translates to “fried rice”. The rice is usually served with shrimp, prawn, egg or chicken. You’ll find various forms of nasi goreng on menus. It’s sold at a reasonable price and is usually cooked fairly quickly.

Nasi goreng with fried rice, spices, shrimp, chicken and egg

Nasi Lemak

Along with nasi goreng, nasi lemak is arguably the most popular dish originating from the entire Malay Archipelago. Nasi lemak features rice cooked in coconut milk, paired with fried chicken, sambal and peanuts. It’s usually served with egg and cucumber, and readily found in restaurants and street markets around the region.

Nasi Lemak served on a banana leaf

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Mee Goreng

Mee goreng (sometimes spelled mi goreng) is another common Southeast Asian dish popular in Brunei. It’s made of spicy fried noodles with either chicken, beef, or seafood (usually prawn), plus with a few vegetables (usually onion and cucumber, maybe more).

Mee goreng with red pepper and cucumbers

Soto (Soup)

Traditionally an Indonesian dish, “soto” means “soup” in English. Soto has caught on in Brunei, in establishments around the country. Soto Pabo is a popular place to eat this dish (water-front restaurant on the Brunei River). You’ll spot it on your way to Kota Batu from Bandar Seri Begawan city center.

Soto is comprised of a specialty spiced broth, with vegetables and a form of meat/protein. Recipes vary depending on the restaurant, but the most common version is called “soto ayam” (chicken soup).

Large bowl of soto - one of many types

Laksa

Laksa is a spicy soup using a curry made of coconut milk. The curry bowl is filled with vermicelli or wheat noodles, and either chicken, fish or seafood (usually prawn). Various vegetables are added on top. All these ingredients combine to create many rich flavors in a single bowl! Laksa originated in peninsular Malaysia.

Laksa includes a variety of flavorful ingredients

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STREET FOOD

Satay

Satay (sometimes spelled “sate”) is the word used to denote grilled skewer meats in many Southeast Asian countries. Satay is a popular street food in Brunei, ranging from fish balls, lamb, chicken, and even chicken butts served at the Gadong Night Market. Cooked quickly and sold at an affordable price, you can find them at evening markets and street stalls, often marinated in sauce and served with sambal.

Satay meat with sambal and sliced lemon

Grilled Fish

Another popular street food is grilled fish. Easy to spot, these fish are typically large enough to be a meal for one, and covered in Brunei’s proprietary orange sauce. In a country with such rich fishing history, eating fish prepared in this tradition is a great way to experience authentic Bruneian cuisine.

Grilled fish covered in Brunei’s orange sauce

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SNACKS

Pulut Panggang

Pulut panggang is made by mixing steamed glutinous rice with sambal filling (usually containing beef or shrimp), then wrapped in banana leaves. The leaves are then grilled and served hot to customers. Typically served with tea, pulut panggang is a nice light snack to indulge in during afternoon breaks from Brunei heat. While you’ll find pulut panggang throughout Brunei, the snack is a specialty of Tutong District. The top options for hot morning servings are Mei Fang Cafe and Puteh Restaurant, a short walk from each other in Pekan Tutong. Arrive by 8:30 am, as both places may sell out before lunch.

Roti Kuning

Roti kuning is a breakfast food unique to Brunei. Two fluffy buns surround a center filled with cheese, meat, and a choice of kawhin (usually some sweet mixture of coconut milk, jam, sugar and butter). You can check out Chop Jing Chew, a popular bakery in Bandar Seri Begawan. The bakery offers a variety of other breakfast options to choose from, as well as a relaxed setting.

Roti kuning at Chop Jing Chew

Lemang

Lemang, also known as “sticky rice in bamboo” in mainland Southeast Asia, is a mixture of coconut milk, salt and glutinous rice, all wrapped together in a banana leaf (lerek), then cooked in bamboo over an open fire. This combination of cooked coconut milk and salt results in a sweet and savory taste.

Traditionally, lemang is communally prepared during religious/spiritual holidays among various groups - from the Muslim majority to smaller tribes. It takes about 4 hours to prepare. The best time of year to try lemang it is during Hari Raya (Aidil Fitri), when many Bruneian families prepare the dish. Lemang is often paired with tapai.

Lemang takes roughly 4 hours to prepare

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Kelupsis

Kelupis (also called kuih kelupsis) originated from the indigenous Bisaya people of northern Borneo. Similar to lemang, it’s made by cooking a banana leaf stuffed with glutinous rice and coconut milk. It’s often paired with sambal or rendang (Indonesian beef dish). Another local snack that is similar to kelupsis is called “lamban”.

Kelupsis, served with rendang and coffee

Roti (Canai & Murtabak)

Roti is enjoyed all throughout Brunei. It comes in a variety of forms. Apart from roti kuning (mentioned just above), two popular types of roti you’ll encounter are roti canai and roti murtabak (called murtabak).

Roti canai (roti chenai) is an Indian-style flatbread, similar to the parotta, that has become very popular in Malaysia and Brunei. Murtabak is an omelette-filled pancake that originated in the Arab world, where it’s still a popular snack. Roti canai and murtabak were introduced to Borneo because of the spice trade, when the Arabian Peninsula (and Europe, by extension) was connected to India (and Southeast Asia, by extension).

Roti canai is typically accompanied by a dip

Curry Puffs

Curry puffs are a popular pastry snack in Bandar Seri Begawan. The puffs have flaky, semi-circle shells. The inside is filled with curry and a type of meat, usually chicken or beef. A great place to try curry puffs is The Currypuff Factory, near Gadong Night Market. They offer some creative variations, made with high quality ingredients and sold at a fair price.

Beef-stuffed curry puffs

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DESSERTS

Pisang Goreng

Pisang goreng (banana fritters) are considered an indulgence. Originally from Indonesia, this dessert has become wildly popular in Brunei. It’s made by deep frying bananas in oil and flour. Sometimes it is served with dipping sauce or covered in cheese, other times served plain. Pisang goreng is found in night markets throughout Brunei, particularly abundant at Gadong Night Market. You’ll find street vendors selling it during breakfast and lunch hours.

Pisang goreng is sweeter than it may appear!

Kuih Gulung

Kuih, sometimes spelled kueh, can describe a variety of dessert styles in Southeast Asia. In Brunei, the most common form of kuih has an exterior that is made by cooking grated or creamed coconut with palm sugar. This type of kuih is called “kuih gulung” in Brunei, denoted by its bright green color. Kuih gulung is also known by other names in parts of Southeast Asia, such as “kuih ketayap” and “kuih dadar”. That soft exterior is stuffed with a bean paste, then rolled. The stuffing ranges from sweet to savory, depending on your order. This makes kuih variable in its flavor and appearance.

Kuih gulung is easy to spot, by its bright green exterior

Cendol

Cendol is a shaved ice dessert made with coconut milk, palm sugar, adzuki beans, and green rice flour jelly. Other topical options are also usually available. Depending on the season, you’ll find durian and other local fruits as toppings. You can typically find cendol sold at the Gadong Night Market.

Large cendol bowl. Finish it before the ice melts!

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Ais Kacang

Ais kacang is similar to “shaved ice” (snow cones) popular in Western countries, only with many more ingredient options. In addition to the shaved ice and sweet syrup, ais kacang typically has red beans and grass jelly, along with other options, such as fruit bits, evaporated milk, nuts and corn.

Available ingredients depend on the vendor you buy from. Ais kacang is very popular in Brunei, Malaysia and Singapore, where you’ll find it sold by street vendors and 5-star restaurants. It goes by various names within the region, including Ice Kachang and Air Batu Campur, but you’ll generally see it labeled as “Ais Kacang” within Brunei.

Ais kacang is similar to “shaved ice”, with more ingredients

Kuih Bahulu

Similar to sponge cakes, kuih bahulu is often served during Hari Raya (Aidil Fitri). Served in batches, its exterior is lightly crusted and its interior is soft and sweet. Egg is the primary ingredient of kuih bahulu.

Kuih Bahulu is flaky outside, soft and sweet inside

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DRINKS

In a country void of alcoholic beverages, sweet drinks have emerged as the people’s social lubricant. As in many East Asian countries, a variety of teas, juices, smoothies, and experimental beverages fill trendy cafes from morning til night.

You can trust that if you can find a fruit in Borneo, someone is already selling it juiced. Cafes spot Bandar Seri Begawan and the many smaller towns throughout the country, so be on the lookout!

Array of freshly squeezed fruit juices

Teh Tarik

Teh tarik, which translates to “pulled tea”, is a style of tea common in both Brunei and Malaysia. It is crisp, sweet and made from combining black tea brew with condensed milk. This mixture is poured back and forth multiple times before it’s served, resulting in a frothy top layer. Teh tarik is quite sweet, so don’t mind asking for less sugar when you order. Piccolo Cafe is a good place to try it in a relaxed setting, in central Bandar Seri Begawan along the waterfront.

Teh tarik has a rich taste and texture!

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Conclusion

Hopefully you found this guide helpful.

Despite being a small country, Brunei offers a ton of food choices. The combination of abundant produce, fish and spices, with a diverse population comprised of indigenous peoples and immigrants, there’s no shortage of stimulating dishes. Ambuyat, the national dish, and Nasi Katok, the national fast food, both have local origins. Bruneian cuisine also incorporates popular Malay and Indonesian dishes.

Markets, particularly Gadong Night Market, offer a wide food and drink selection at great prices. You’ll find satay skewers, tropical drinks, full meals and/or desserts - each sold for only a few BND or less. Whether your taste buds crave savory, sweet or something in between, eating in Brunei will surely be a highlight of your trip here! To learn more about Brunei, explore our other guides below.

Enjoy your travels!

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Visitor Tips!

• For more on Gadong Night Market (Brunei’s best place to eat) and Tamu Kianggeh (Brunei’s best day market), read this guide.

• Brunei also offers various options for those seeking non-local (non-Bruneian) cuisine.

  • Chinese restaurants are abundant. Try steamed buns, called “baozi”.

  • Sushi is also popular. Kaizen Sushi is one of the most popular spots, with locations in BSB, Seria and Kuala Belait.

• Other Asian dishes you’ll find include: Tom yam (Thai), Biryani (Indian), Rojak, ketupat & beef rendang (Indonesian)

• Western fast food options include: McDonald’s, KFC and Pizza Hut

• Vegan and vegetarian options include: Mituo Vegetarian Restaurant and Tien Sing Vegetarian, plus various Indian restaurants. For more, you can check out happycow.net.

• Tipping is not common or expected at most “typical Bruneian” establishments. Restaurants focused on ambience and service may include a 10% service charge to your meal. This is likely the case in restaurants that cater to foreigners. Of course, tipping is always appreciated.

• All food in Brunei is “halal”. Halal means the food was prepared in accordance with Islamic law (particularly regarding meat). Since there’s really no choice in finding non-halal food in Brunei, this doesn’t really affect visitors. Brunei has a “Brunei Halal” brand which certifies these products. The brand sells its halal food products internationally as well.

• Brunei is a “dry country”, meaning alcohol is not sold or served. It can be possible to bring alcohol into Brunei however, but you must follow specific rules when bringing it into the country and when consuming it. To read about Brunei’s alcohol laws, click here.

• Truthfully, Bandar Seri Begawan does not offer much in regards to nightlife. Still, a handful of restaurants and cafes remain open until 10 pm (a few others until midnight). Some of these can be found in the Gadong area.

• Most restaurants in central Bandar Seri Begawan close during Friday prayer. That exact time varies throughout the year, but expect this break to begin around noon and last 1-2 hours.

• Coffee is pronounced “ko-pee” in Malay.

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Best Way To Find A Hotel In Brunei

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