Kampong Ayer: Travel Guide To The World’s Largest Water Village [Venice Of The East]

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Kampong Ayer

Kampong Ayer is Brunei’s most treasured piece of living history. Translated from Malay to English as “Water Village”, Kampong Ayer is the largest water village in the world - home to over 10,000 residents.

Founded over a millennium ago, Kampong Ayer is entirely built on stilts. Today, the Brunei River splits Kampong Ayer from central Bandar Seri Begawan. The juxtaposition of the modern city center across the historic village is a sight to behold.

In this travel guide, we’ll explore Kampong Ayer.

We’ll cover Kampong Ayer’s history (from humble beginnings to a powerful empire), its slow decline, modern life, how the village functions, how to get there, and general tips to get the most out of a trip.

Kampong Ayer is an incredibly colorful and historic place

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Table of Contents

• Small Village To Thriving Empire

• First Impressions From Europeans

• Decline During British Rule

• Inside Kampong Ayer

• Village Life In Kampong Ayer

• How The Village Functions

• How To Get To Kampong Ayer

• Visitor Tips!

• Conclusion

• Best Way To Find A Hotel In Brunei

• About The Author (Taz Zaidi)

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Small Village To Thriving Empire

Chinese historical records dating back a thousand years describe the village as an important community of Northern Borneo. Research shows nibung palm, mangrove trees, bulian, and nipah leaves were used as construction materials for adhesives, roofing and walls.

But who were these initial settlers? To the best of our knowledge, a group of sea nomads were the first to build homes at this site. A community developed, as more sea nomads joined them. This continued until the settlement became a small village, which became a city, as population grew and society developed.

Kampong Ayer was the primary port of the Brunei Empire during its high point. As the strength of its exports grew, the Empire developed strong trading relations with Asian communities near and far. It eventually became a trading hub for Southeast Asia. Kampong Ayer then became capital of the Empire for multiple centuries (15th -18th). During that time, the city was home to all levels of society - from royalty to poverty.

Local commerce developed. Villagers made livings by a variety of means, including fishing, handicraft, wood collecting, boat building and cloth weaving, among others. Floating markets developed within the village and became centers for public gathering.

View of the boardwalk extending alongside a neighborhood

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First Impressions From Europeans

Kampong Ayer was famously coined “Venice of the East” by Antonio Pigafetta, an Italian explorer who accompanied Ferdinand Magellan on his journey to Far East Asia in 1521. In 1578, Francisco de Sande, Spanish governor of the Philippines, led Spain in the Castilian War versus Brunei. Spain and Brunei battled over Luzon Island, which was under Bruneian rule at the time, and which held the prized capital of Manila.

Spain quickly defeated Brunei at Luzon, then sent troops to attack Brunei Town, the Empire’s capital. Luckily, Brunei was spared because of a deadly cholera outbreak among Spanish troops in Borneo. Francisco de Sande was amazed at what he saw in Brunei. He wrote about the beauty of an incredible water town built from wood, and noted the Sultan’s enormous palace nestled within it. A few years later, the Boxer Codex, a manuscript written by Spanish explorers, warned that this same settlement was particularly vulnerable to fires because of its wooden construction and the proximity of the homes to one another.

Colorful homes like this one stand out as you walk around

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Decline During British Rule

The Empire continued to operate without European interruption until the 19th century. During the era of imperial British rule, Britain introduced the Residents’ System. British officials wanted to shift Brunei Town to the mainland. To do this, they encouraged villagers to relocate to the land just across the Brunei River. 

As residents moved, traditional occupations and duties in the water village were neglected. This stripped the economic power and social fabric from the village, shifting it from a self-reliant community to one that was dependent on the land village. This marked the beginning of a slow transition of the population from the water side to the land side, which has continued to this day. Even by the mid-20th century, over half of Brunei’s population still lived in Kampong Ayer.

Today, Kampong Ayer represents just 3 percent of the entire country’s population. Floating markets ceased to exist after the 1950s, when the demand was no longer justified. While the British could be blamed, this shift in population would have likely occurred regardless. As the world modernizes, many Bruneians desire a modern lifestyle. A significant percentage of the youth continues to move to the land side for career and social opportunities. Another factor that drew people away from Kampong Ayer was the rise of the oil and gas industry during the 20th century. This created many well-paying jobs on the west side of Brunei, enticing many to move to Belait District.

A fully equipped mechanic shop

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Inside Kampong Ayer

Kampong Ayer’s construction is amazing. The entire village is built on stilts and connected by a wooden boardwalk. The boardwalk’s total length measures over 38 kilometers. These 38 kilometers include hundreds of turns connecting the village of 10,000+ residents.

Many of the homes are built mostly of wood. Because of a lack of regulation, designs and colors are often unique. Some are painted in flamboyant, bright colored designs. The village maintains public services as well, such as primary and secondary schools, a hospital, a police and fire station, gyms and mosques.

Al-Muhtadee Billah Mosque (named after Sultan Bolkiah’s eldest son) was strategically built as a point of orientation. It’s the village’s primary mosque and is accessible via boardwalk. For more on Billah Mosque, read the 7 Marvelous Mosques To Visit In Brunei.

This fire station serves all residents of Kampong Ayer

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Village Life In Kampong Ayer

What is life like inside the village? Because Brunei is an under-the-radar tourist destination, village life operates relatively undisturbed by tourism. The village maintains a distinct, peaceful feel - different from that of the modern city center across the Brunei River. You may feel as if you’ve gone back in time while strolling the creaky boardwalk and observing villagers. Smile and strike up a conversation! Some residents may even invite you to see part of their home. It’s not rare for a house to have been built by a living family member. While many families have left Kampong Ayer, there are still enough who prefer the traditional lifestyle, that a thriving, tight-knit community still remains.

Speedboat picking up residents waiting on the jetty

Some villagers spend their days working traditional occupations, supporting themselves by trading with neighbors. Such occupations include weavers, potters, fishermen and boat builders. While some commute daily to central Bandar Seri Begawan for work, others only leave the village for leisure or to buy necessities. Some families build their own boats in the space just below or beside their homes. Boats are sometimes shared between families. There’s also a surprising number of animals that live in the village, including cats, birds and pet monkeys.

A typical view as you walk through the village

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How The Village Functions

Many homes might appear to be run-down from the outside, making you wonder if it’s even safe to lay the pressure of your foot beyond their doorsteps. But the appearance can be deceiving. These same homes are furnished and equipped with satellite dishes, internet, plumbing and electricity. While the government has helped to maintain the original look and function of the traditional wooden houses, they’ve also built some modern homes. Apart from being raised on stilts, these look like modern, generic houses in any suburban neighborhood in the West.

Modern home in a modern part of Kampong Ayer

Despite being surrounded by and hovering over water, traditional homes in Kampong Ayer are susceptible to fires because of their wooden construction and inter-connection. Some sinks drain directly into the river. Not all homes have sewage systems or follow ideal trash disposal practices. This results in much water in and around the village to become polluted, especially noticeable during low tide. Apart from the aesthetic, pollution greatly affects fishermen, who have been the community’s backbone for centuries. The government is currently focused on improving infrastructure and water pollution to improve the lives of the residents. Major improvements in piping has already increased quality of life, providing homes with consistent access to clean water and electricity.

Example of modern style and traditional style homes neighboring each other

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How To Get To Kampong Ayer

Luckily, Kampong Ayer is just an affordable water taxi away from central Bandar Seri Begawan. The primary water taxi jetty is on the river bank just in front of the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah shopping mall. Crossing from here to Kampong Ayer costs only 1 Brunei Dollar one way. The trip is short - you can distinctly see Kampong Ayer from the city center. There is no need to ask a boatman to wait on you for the return trip, as boats are readily available.

If you want to go from one point of Kampong Ayer to another point further down, go to the nearest jetty and wait for a boat to arrive. There are many jetties around Kampong Ayer’s perimeter, so there will always be one close by. Just keep walking the boardwalk until you see the next (jetties are labeled and numbered). You can hire a driver to take you through the village - twisting and turning between stilts and under bridges.

The main jetty from Bandar Seri Begawan city center

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Visitor Tips!

• Kampong Ayer has its own museum, called the “Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery”. This museum provides context on the village’s history and traditional customs. Expect to spend roughly 20-30 minutes here. To read about Brunei’s museums, click here.

• Take a Brunei River Mangrove Tour to explore the mangrove forest and see proboscis monkeys, crocodiles and Istana Nurul Iman, the world’s largest residential palace! You can take this tour as an add-on to your Kampong Ayer visit or as a separate trip. To read about the Brunei River Mangrove Tour, click here.

• Apart from the museum, the water village does not particularly cater to tourists. You should eat before leaving the city or bring food with you. Remember to dress conservatively, as you are entering a functioning village where people live.

• Feel free to request your driver (for a few extra BND) to drive you through the village stilts and under its bridges. You’ll see unique angles you’d otherwise miss by walking the boardwalk.

• Watch your step on the boardwalk. While it’s generally safe, there are a few broken planks.

• For a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to spend a night or two in the world’s largest water village, check out the listings on Agoda.com!

*Agoda.com sells quality, discounted hotel rooms (UP TO $50 OFF!). To see today’s deals on hotels in Brunei (or in another destination), click here.

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Conclusion

Hopefully you found this guide helpful.

Kampong Ayer is a must-visit attraction in Brunei. We covered the village’s history (humble beginnings to powerful empire), slow decline, modern life, how it functions, how to get there, and general tips to get the most out of your trip. To learn more about Brunei, explore our other guides below.

Enjoy your travels!

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Visit Kampong Ayer during this 5-star customer rated tour, organized by Viator and run by locals!

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