Belait District: Travel Guide To Western Brunei [Seria, Kuala Belait]

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The Belait District

Belait is home to Brunei’s petroleum industry.

Oil discovery in 1929 catalyzed the transformation of Brunei’s economy into one of the strongest in all of Southeast Asia and made Sultan Bolkiah one of the world’s wealthiest men. Oil and gas production now makes up the majority of Brunei’s GDP and exports.

In this travel guide, we’ll explore Belait District.

We’ll cover what you’ll want to know from a visitor’s perspective, including information on the indigenous Belait people, the local oil industry, things to do in Seria and Kuala Belait, the Teraja Waterfall, plus  tips to help you get the most out of your visit here.

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Table of Contents

• The Belait District

• The Belait River

• The Native Belait People

• Brunei’s Oil Industry

• Seria

• Things To Do In Seria

• Kuala Belait

• Things To Do In Kuala Belait

• Visitor Tips!

• Conclusion

• Best Way To Find A Hotel In Brunei

• About The Author (Taz Zaidi)

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The Belait District

While it lacks the tourist attractions of Bandar Seri Begawan and natural appeal of Ulu Temburong, Brunei’s Belait District offers its own unique draw. Belait is Brunei’s largest district and makes up half of Brunei’s geographical size, while containing a sixth of its population - resulting in a population density of just 27 people per square kilometer. Most of the population lives near the coastal district capital, Kuala Belait, and the major oil town, Seria. While the coast is mostly industrialized, Belait’s interior remains exotic and “under-developed”. Mountainous slopes and thick rainforest are spotted by villages.

Map of Brunei’s four districts

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The Belait River

The Belait River is Belait’s dominant landmark and Brunei’s longest river. The river starts in Labi Forest Reserve, then snakes through the district’s interior, before emptying into the South China Sea (just west of Kuala Belait). In the same way the Brunei River has done for Kampong Ayer in the east, the Belait River has nourished western Bruneians for centuries. Belait River plays a crucial role in transport, allowing locals to bypass the forest via boat. It’s also been a key source of drinking water and is used to grow crops.

A typical longboat in the Belait River

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The Native Belait People

The Belait District is named after the region’s native Belait people. They speak the Belait language (which is slowly being lost through passing generations in favor of Malay, the more “pragmatic” language). It’s still possible to encounter spoken Belait language in the district’s rural villages. Other indigenous groups and ethnic Chinese have lived here for centuries. Since the 1900s, there’s been a large number of immigrants arriving from Europe, the Americas, the Philippines, India and Malaysia (and others) coming to work in the thriving oil industry.

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Brunei’s Oil Industry

Small oil seepages and smells were first reported in Belait in 1899. This inspired the British, Dutch and Bruneian officials to work together in the search for oil in the area. 30 years of mostly unfruitful attempts led to discouragement, until the Royal Dutch Shell company discovered “Seria Well Number 1” in 1929. The discovery of Seria Well Number 1 was followed by Seria Well Number 2 months later. This changed Brunei’s future. Throughout the 1900s, additional oil fields were discovered and infrastructure developed in the area, resulting in an exponential increase in yield.

Total oil production reached over 6 million barrels by 1940. The first off-shore site was discovered in 1963, just thirteen kilometers from Kuala Belait. This led to the opening of Brunei LNG (Liquefied Natural Gas) plant in 1973. The plant was one of the first of its kind and the first in the entire Western Pacific. After discoveries at nearby Magpie and Rasau, the total oil production increased to 240,000 barrels per day in 1979. This marked the peak of daily production. Exports of crude oil and natural gas are still primary drivers of Brunei’s economy. Despite its small size, Brunei is the third largest oil producer in Southeast Asia - at around 200,000 barrels per day. Brunei LNG is one of the largest LNG plants in the world.

Three pumpjacks (called “nodding donkeys”) at Seria Field

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SERIA

The Seria Field is still Brunei’s largest oil field after all these years. Since its discovery in 1929, over 1 billion barrels have been produced. Seria Field has over 300 active wells and is operated by British Shell Petroleum. British authorities originally called it the “South East Reserved Industrial Area”. It was later acronymized as “SERIA”.

Just twelve years after it was discovered, Japan turned Seria into a focal point during the Brunei occupation of World War II. Seria Field was one of the key fuel sources for the Imperial Japanese Army’s war efforts. Today, this small town is mostly populated by those involved in the oil industry, many of whom were born outside of Brunei and came here for work.

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Things To Do In Seria

The Billionth Barrel Monument was built in 1991 to commemorate the milestone of Seria’s one billionth barrel produced, representing Brunei and its history. Six pillars resemble oil erupting from the land, and culminate to a point where the national emblem sits.

From the monument, you’ll observe actual offshore oil platforms just off the coast. This is also one of the best places to watch the sunset in Brunei, second only to Pantai Seri Kenangan beach. If interested in learning more about Brunei’s oil industry, visit the nearby Oil and Gas Discovery Centre. It has exhibits focused on science, technology and history.

Billionth Barrel Monument along South China Sea coast

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For a natural escape, consider visiting the tranquil and scenic Teraja Waterfall. To get there, just drive south from Seria until the end of Jalan Labi (Labi Road), where you’ll see a traditional longhouse. This is the trailhead, which leads you down a quiet forest path. You’ll be at the waterfall within 30 minutes.

You can swim in the natural pool’s light teal water. It shouldn’t be busy on weekdays, so you may have the area to yourself. Also along Jalan Labi is Lalak Lake National Park, a swamp lake with wooden walkways and gazebos, where you can sit and enjoy the scenery. Lalak Park borders Labi Road, so it’s hard to miss it when driving by.

Teraja Waterfall

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KUALA BELAIT

Kuala is a word commonly used in names of Malay cities. It means “confluence”, or “mouth of a river”. Kuala Belait is Brunei’s second largest urban center and the administrative center of its western side. It sits 120 kilometers from Bandar Seri Begawan, but only 50 kilometers from Siri, a major city on the Bornean side of Malaysia. Kuala Belait is located just a few kilometers from the Malay border.

Kuala Belait was created as an administrative center for Brunei’s western half (critical after oil discovery). It sits ideally between Seria and Rasau oil fields. Kuala Belait experienced a surge in growth via construction projects during Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III’s reign, and the town has never stopped growing. Hotels and businesses continue to spring up. Kuala Belait is the only town outside Bandar Seri Begawan where you’ll encounter a metropolitan feel. There’s a wide range of food, shopping and lodging - from luxury to budget.

Kuala Belait

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Things To Do In Kuala Belait

If visiting Kuala Belait on the weekend, drop by the Tudung Saji market. This market sells produce and goods local to Belait, providing a different experience than BSB’s Gadong Night Market. There are also a few small restaurants serving local cuisine, including Ambuyat (the national dish). Tudung Saji sits beside the Kuala Belait Boat Club, by the Belait River.

The Belait Museum features exhibits on the region’s history, culture and traditions, which is both similar and unique from that of Bandar Seri Begawan and the east of Brunei. Next to the museum is the Silver Jubilee Park, a popular relaxation area right on Belait Beach. Consider hiring a longboat water taxi at Kuala Belait’s public pier for a peaceful ride through Belait River - an experience similar to BSB’s Brunei River Tour. You may see a crocodile along the river bank!

Beach near Kuala Belait. Offshore oil rigs in the distance!

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Visitor Tips!

• Check the weather if you plan to drive through Belait’s interior. The highly tropical conditions means strong rainfall and sometimes flooding. 

• Getting to the Belait District from Bandar Seri Begawan is simple. Buses go between Bandar Seri Begawan Main Station and Seria. From Seria, take a half-hour bus to Kuala Belait.

• While easy to visit as a day trip, especially with a car, Belait District is far enough from Bandar Seri Begawan that you may prefer to spend one night there. This would also provide a pleasant change of pace from the capital city of BSB.

  • Multiple days in Belait will allow you to experience the local culture, explore the interior’s natural sites, and also visit the Tutong District.

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Conclusion

Hopefully you found this guide helpful.

Belait is Brunei’s largest district and the lifeline of the country’s economy. We covered Brunei’s second and third largest cities (Kuala Belait and Seria), history of the Belait people, Belait River and the oil industry, plus some attractions and how to get to Belait from central Bandar Seri Begawan. To learn more about Brunei, explore our other guides below.

Enjoy your travels!

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Visit the Belait District on this tour, organized by Viator and run by locals!

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